The Beat Of Black Wings

“Everyone likes birds. What wild creature is more accessible to our eyes and ears, as close to us and everyone in the world, as universal as a bird?”

– David Attenborough

Following Flores we travelled down to ‘Lago Izabel’ in the South East of Guatemala. Our base camp was a fantastic hotel on a tiny Island in the ‘Rio Dulce’ called hotel Catamaran. The Island was so small that I decided to swim around it in the evening! We took a trip down the river to Livingston, a town on the miniature Caribbean sea coast of Guatemala.

The number of Cormorants and white herons on the boat trip down the river was outstanding. I have never seen so many Cormorants in my life! One particularly strange phenomenon was the aptly named ‘Bird Island’ where hundreds of the black and white feathered creatures gathered together to nest.


As we drew closer to the coast the Pelicans began to gradually increase in number until they too become ridiculously abundant!Image

At one point there was a large number of them sitting on a pier facing towards us creating the hilarious appearance of some sort of military assembly. Image

However we only stayed for one night in this peaceful location, moving swiftly onto lively Antigua, the previous capital city. It’s a beautiful old classicaly colonial town filled with local cafés, artisan markets and first class coffee (So I’m told, not being a coffee drinker myself!)



The city is currently swarming with an influx of tourists, locally from Guatemala and further afield, gathering for the ‘Semana Santa’ celebrations in the build up to Easter. This evening was a (slightly premature perhaps, Good Friday being a week away) procession of the stages of Christ’s crucifixion. The small floats were held by children dressed in their Lent-time purple cloaks.



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